Product guide

Choosing Shoe Materials — Uppers, Midsoles & Outsoles

By DOING SHOES · 2026-06-29T00:00:00.000Z · 9 min read

A plain-English guide to the materials your shoe is built from — common upper, midsole and outsole options, what each does for performance, cost and durability, and how to choose the right mix for your product.

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Every decision about how a shoe feels, lasts, weighs and costs comes down to materials. You do not need to be a materials engineer to make good choices — you need to know the main options and what each one trades off. This guide walks through the three big areas — uppers, midsoles and outsoles — in plain language, so you can spec a shoe that hits your performance goal and your price.

The upper: what wraps the foot

The upper is the most visible part of the shoe and sets much of its character. Common options:

• Canvas — cheap, breathable, casual. The classic vulcanized-sneaker upper.
• Engineered mesh — light, breathable, flexible; the workhorse of modern running and lifestyle sneakers. Cost varies widely with construction.
• Knit — seamless, stretchy, premium-looking; great for a clean, modern silhouette.
• Leather — durable and premium, with a price to match; common in casual, dress and some outdoor shoes.
• Suede / nubuck — soft, premium texture, less weather-resistant unless treated.
• Synthetics (PU, microfibre) — versatile, often used as leather alternatives and for vegan footwear.

The upper choice drives breathability, durability, look and a big share of cost. Match it to use: mesh and knit for athletic comfort, leather for durability and premium feel, canvas for value.

The midsole: cushioning and feel

The midsole sits between your foot and the ground and largely determines comfort and ride. The main materials:

• EVA — a light, cushioning foam used everywhere for comfort. Economical and versatile.
• Phylon — compression-moulded EVA: lighter, cleaner-looking and more responsive, common in performance and lifestyle sneakers.
• PU (polyurethane) — denser and more durable than EVA, holds its cushioning longer; heavier, used in some work and comfort footwear.
• Rubber — used as a midsole in some constructions for durability rather than softness.

Some shoes skip a separate midsole entirely — barefoot shoes use a thin, flat sole on purpose. Others stack multiple foams for a tuned ride. The midsole is where comfort and weight are won or lost.

The outsole: where the shoe meets the ground

The outsole takes the wear, so material here is mostly about durability and grip:

• Rubber — the most durable and grippy, standard on outdoor, court, safety and work shoes. Solid rubber lasts longest; it is heavier and costs more.
• Blown rubber — rubber with air added: lighter and softer, good grip, wears a little faster.
• TPR / TPU — thermoplastic compounds used for specific grip, flex or aesthetic needs.
• EVA outsole — light and cheap, used on casual and comfort shoes where heavy abrasion is not expected.

A very common, sensible combination is a rubber outsole over a foam midsole — durability where the ground hits, cushioning where the foot sits. For hiking and safety shoes, outsole compound and tread design matter as much as any other choice.

How materials drive cost

Materials are the biggest lever on unit price — more than labour or quantity. As a rough hierarchy, from lower to higher cost: canvas and basic mesh, then standard EVA, then engineered mesh and knit, then PU and high-rebound foams, then leather and technical membranes. This is exactly why two quotes for “the same” shoe can differ so much — they are usually built from different materials. Choosing materials to hit your target price is a core part of development, not an afterthought.

How to choose the right mix

A simple way to approach it:

1. Start from use and price. A value casual sneaker and a technical trail shoe pull material choices in opposite directions. Let purpose and target cost frame the options.
2. Prioritise the part that matters most for your shoe — grip for outdoor, cushioning for running, look and hand-feel for lifestyle.
3. Ask for physical swatches and samples. Materials feel different in hand than on a spec sheet. A good manufacturer will show real references.
4. Balance durability and weight deliberately — rubber lasts but adds weight; foam is light but wears. There is no free lunch, only the right trade-off for your buyer.
5. Factor in compliance. Some treatments and materials carry chemical-compliance considerations for the EU and US.

The bottom line

Uppers decide look, breathability and much of the cost; midsoles decide comfort and weight; outsoles decide grip and durability. You do not need to memorise compounds — you need to match materials to your shoe’s purpose and price, prioritise the part that matters most, and choose against real samples. A manufacturer with development depth turns that from guesswork into a guided decision.

Not sure which materials fit your shoe and budget? Tell us your product and target price — we’ll recommend a material mix and show you real samples.